Black locust static recurve
This stave has a few knots on one limb and had a sideways bend in the middle but the other side is really clean.
After roughing out I corrected the sideways bend in the handle with steam. It also has some twist but I could not get that out. The grain curves down in the handle section (still visible in the handle pic below). Because of this grain dip the stave was thinner at the handle so I glued some maple, walnut and bamboo on the belly.
Started the hollow limb with a large gouge and bent the recurves with steam just after first stringing.
The original plan was a 70/75 lb bow but halfway during tillering the large knot on the side split from the side (which I left extra wide for safety). I thought the bow was ruined! Examined the bow the next day and decided to fill the crack with superglue and rasped of as much of the knot and crack as possible. Now there is half a knot on the side, will see how long this lasts…
Lowered the draw weight about ten lbs for safety because there is stil a little of the crack on the side. Shot about 50 arrows to see if it holds up and then fumed it for 4 days.
Kinda liked how the handle glue up turned out after fuming so decided to leave it without a leather handle wrap.
Wood: black locust
Length: 64 inch ntn
Draw weight: 63 lbs at 26 inch
Handle wrap: build up wood laminates
Extras: Fumed, Hollow Limb Design
String: 8 strand fastflight
Ipe/Boo static recurve
Lately I am on a self bow kick but I have always wanted to try a static laminated recurve. So in-between some self bows I started this one.
My lam bows are almost always backed with bamboo and for the belly I use either massuranduba or ipe. Since I only have access to hand tools (Except for a cheap belt sander) I decided on only two lams for this one to make sure I had enough belly wood to shape when tillering. I know there are lot of guys who make laminated bows with extreme precision which come out of the form and are ready to string up. This is not how I do it. Basically I laminate the rough form into a bow stave and from that work on it as I would with a self bow. The obvious advantage is of course that you can easily add reflex and deflex shapes at glue up.
Now gluing in a static recurve is a little different since you can’t bend ipe with heat and you can’t bend a thick piece over a tight radiused form without breaking it.
So after some googling around for info I stumbled upon an old thread by Justin Snyder. He used kerf cuts to bend recurves in ipe. This basically works by cutting your tips in half and thereby creating two thin lams which are still attached to your bow;-) So I got the handsaw out and cut my lams in half, then stuffed some very thin ebony I had laying around in between with some glue and clamp it on the form. By far the easiest recurves I have ever made!
After drying they looked great but where still a little thin so I added a piece of ash to stiffen up the recurves a bit. Rasped the transition from the ash with the belly smooth after drying and then glued up the bamboo and the powerlam. The reflex/deflex was glued in by using a few different height blocks and clamps.
After that I added some leftover contrasting woods as a handle and started tillering as normal. The only problem I had was that during the glue up the bamboo at both tips had shifted a bit (left them a little too thick at the tips for the tight recurve radius) This was a problem because bamboo has a bit of a crown and since it was not really centered at the tips anymore one side of the bamboo will be thicker when you shape the tips to final width. So after first stringing the tips bent over to the side as expected. I did leave them wide so after some shaping from opposing sides and a little from one side of the belly (on the strong side) I got them back in line.
For the finishing: The bamboo I used is already caramel coloured and I added some brown paint to the nodes and tips. Sanded the sides after that and added some layers of Danish Oil for the finish. Dulled the shine a bit with super fine steel wool.
This bow was chosen “Backed bow of the year” by the users on the Primitive Archer message board
Wood: bamboo backed ipe, ipe belly
Length: 63 inch
Draw weight: 54 lbs op 28 inch
Extras: bamboo powerlam, ash and mahogany recurve inserts, ipe tip overlays
Handle woods: Maple, wenge, bamboo flooring
String: 8 strand fastflight
Black locust static
This bow came from a stave I got from a fellow bowbuilder in the Netherlands. It was quite big so I decided to split it in two, this is the first bow from that stave.
The stave had some propellor twist and a sideways bend in the middle section. After roughing out I steamed most of the bend in the middle section out and started the tiller. Since this was going to be a hollow limb bow I started with a gauge until I could brace it. After getting the first brace even I steamed the recurves in and fixed some of the prop twist at the same time.
From then on I tillered the whole bow using a gooseneck scraper, this works great for HLD bows and is surprisingly quick too! I heat treated the bow thoroughly and fixed some more of the twist. There is still some twist end bend in the bow but the recurves line up perfectly so it is not a problem.
After some shooting and finetuning the tiller I “fumed” the bow for five days to get the dark colors. I taped the middle section and removed some of the tape every day to get the fade effect.
This bow won the Primitive Archer April/may 2016 BOM contest.
Wood: black locust
Length: 66 inch
Draw weight: 62 lbs at 28 inch
Handle: leather wrap (from old jacket)
Extras: fumed, ipé tip overlays
String: 8 strand fastflight, double loop
Geen platte buik
Eén van mijn favoriete bogenbouwers die vaak bogen post op het primitive archer forum is Simon Siess (primitive-bows.com) uit Duitsland. Hij maakt echt prachtige bogen en is een paar jaar geleden begonnen met zogenaamde “Hollow Limb Design” bogen. Hij heeft de theorie dat vooral bij kleine diameter takken het uithollen van de armen aan de buikzijde een betere verspreiding van de druk oplevert, alsmede een lichter totaalgewicht. Dit wilde ik al een tijd proberen dus een redelijk dunne tak genomen om een hazelaar hld testen.
Het uithollen van de armen in eerste instantie met een hole steekbeitel gedaan en later met een schraapstaal. Dit werkte eigenlijk erg makkelijk met hazelaar. Gaat niet erg snel natuurlijk maar je hebt fantastische controle.
Omdat ik erg van selfbows met “flipped tips” hou en om de boog nog wat meer te laten werken voor de test heb ik na het eerste opspannen de tips dus gebogen met stoom. De boog kwam precies op 50 pond op 28 inch uit en heeft tot op heden bijna geen set. Dit is best bijzonder voor een 64 inch selfbow met recurves.
Omdat dit een relatief dunne tak was en ik deze over de lengte gespleten heb vond ik het handvat wat dun dus daar heb ik nog een stuk mahonie opgelijmd.
Lengte: 64 inch
Trekgewicht: 50 lbs op 28 inch
Handvat: mahonie, paracord wikkel
Extra’s: ipé tip overlays